GTC Maintenance Notes under construction icon
last edited on 1 September 2016


EMERGENCY CUTOFFS (click for map)

Lightning Trips

Sometimes, a lightning strike will trip the main circuit breaker behind the auto club, and the switch has to be thrown off/on to restore power.

Lightning Safety

NOAA's advice for outdoor lightning safety:
"You are not safe anywhere outside. Run to a safe building or vehicle when you first hear thunder, see lightning or observe dark threatening clouds developing overhead. Stay inside until 30 minutes after you hear the last clap of thunder. Do not shelter under trees."

The GTC sheds are NOT safe shelter. A hardtop car IS safe shelter.


In 1995, Craig Powers put up a large, gravel-filled, plywood backboard behind court 10 to practice hitting. In 2002, the plywood wall filled with gravel was coming apart at the seams, and so it was replaced by a smaller, tough new fiberglass wall filled with sand, donated by the GEWA council. The new "sportwall" is tipped to bounce the ball back farther, and curved to return the ball back closer to the centerline. The "sportwall" is coated with a tough exterior-grade paint expected to last for at least a decade.

In the summer of 2006, GEWA created overflow parking for the Rec Center by expanding the GTC back parking lot, doubling the width of the back road and the number of parking spaces. That also meant enclosing the GTC courts within the Rec Center fence. During big Rec Center events, GTC member's access will be through the Good Luck Road gate, instead of the main campus.

In October 2006, GSFC re-routed Soil Conservation Road around the north side of the Rec Center. That opened access to the courts from the main campus without security gates.

In 2007, the Rec Center paved the back road and parking lot. That created a dismal swamp with no drainage in the area south of the clay courts. This drowned dozens of mature oak trees that had provided excellent shade in the summer. In July 2008, the Rec Center re-installed the drain pipe that had been under the road to the south of the swamp, alleviating the drainage problem. Unfortunately, the big old oaks continue to die of rot.
View of GTC's Dismal Swamp in February 2011.

In May 2011, the roofs of the blockhouse and plywood sheds were replaced. The original tarpaper had shredded and peel away during the spring wind storms, and the underlying plywood has started rotting, partly due to slight slope of the roof and the lack of metal edging to protect the plywood.
shed roofs
The replacement involved creating a steeper pitch with extended rafters, and covering it with corrugated plastic panels by Ondura that promise longer life.


The club owns an electric cart for tennis maintenance, stored in the plywood shack.
The model is called ServAce, purchased circa 1990 from the Giliberti company ( in Florida, which can still supply spare parts (20618 SW Citrus Blvd, Indiantown, FL 34956, 772-597-1870).

It is a 3-wheeled golf cart that has been modified to pull a roller and/or drag brush. The cart appears to be based on a 1990's utility model marketed by E-Z-GO aka EZ-GO aka EZGO

It takes about 30 minutes to drag and roll all 8 of GTC's Har-Tru courts with the cart. The cart should not be used when the courts are muddy or have standing water on them. Early in the spring, the cart should be used only to roll the courts, since the drag brush will pull the old lines up before their nails have re-set in the clay.


The cart is powered by six ordinary 6-volt wet lead-acid batteries wired in series to power a 36-volt motor. The batteries are trickle-charged from a standard 110-volt A/C socket through an on-board transformer on the back of the cart. Replacement batteries cost about $100 each. Batteries need to be replaced every 5 to 7 years, when they can no longer hold enough charge to roll the courts. The batteries were last replaced in the spring of 2014, and a few corroding wires are replaced every year. Old wires, although appearing good, can be corroded near the terminals, overheating and even melting a terminal out of its case. To be safe, the battery-to-battery cables should be replaced along with the batteries. The wires are a variety of lengths, 9" to 24", of 4-gauge copper cable terminated with closed loops, designed for electric golf carts. Wires cost $5 to $10 each, and a little less if bought in a kit from a golf cart parts supplier. The batteries are located beneath the seat of the cart. The batteries need to be topped-up with distilled water every year, when they should also be neutralized with baking soda and water or an anti-acid spray.
cart battery
BatteriesPlus is a franchise supplier of specialized batteries with local outlets, such as in South Bowie, Columbia, and Rockville. For EZGO golf carts, they offer four models of a 6-volt battery. The higher-numbered models weigh more, cost more, and store more energy.


The cart's tires are fat tubeless construction, pressurized at 24 pounds per square inch, with maybe half that pressure when they are atop the roller (for better grip on the roller). The specialty tire is a treadless 18X9.50 4-ply made by Carlisle Tire. In 2013, we purchased 3 replacement tires for $74 each, including shipping, to replace the original equipment tires (30 years old).

We use a small electric air compressor (described below) to maintain tire pressure.

To remove the front wheel:
cart front wheel

To replace tire/wheel assembly on hub:

Using the Roller

The rear wheels can be lifted onto the roller to flatten the clay courts. This is accomplished by lowering the roller behind the cart, placing wedge-shaped ramps behind the wheels, and driving the cart backwards, up-and-over the roller, so the tires rest on the roller.
cart cart

After flattening the clay courts, the roller must be pried back from under the wheels using the pry bar underneath the pivot bar, by pushing the pry bar hard up and forward.
cart cart

Finally, the roller is suspended behing the cart using the pry bar over the pivot bar, lifting the roller and holding it up by tucking the pry bar under the edge of the rear deck.
cart cart
In 2013, the plastic roller began disintegrating, and was replaced with a custom-built new one from the Giliberti company at a cost of about $1,000.

Air Compressor

air compressor front front view

air compressor back back view

air compressor bottom bottom view

    To use:
  1. plug into wall socket
  2. close the water-drain valve under the bottom air tank (screw OUT to close)
  3. turn on pump (red button "|" down)
  4. wait a minute for tanks to pressurize (at least 50 psi is good)
  5. meanwhile, attach air hose to flat tire valve (easy clamp on - gauge reads tire pressure when trigger is not squeezed)
  6. plug air hose into tool socket atop tanks (hose fittings leak a bit, so tanks don't pressurize well when hose is plugged in)
  7. squeeze trigger to fill tire (gauge reads tool-supplied pressure when trigger is squeezed)
  8. repeat tank fill/tire fill as needed (may have to unplug leaky hose from tank to refill tank fast enough)
  9. turn off pump (red button "0" down)
  10. detach air hose from tire and tank supply
  11. depressurize tanks (pull ringed valve atop tanks)
  12. open drain cock for storage, so it won't rust from inside out (screw IN valve under bottom tank)


Har-Tru is a brand of dirt, composed of a mixture of green clay and sand that is mined in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia. The clay has salt (calcium chloride or magnesium chloride) added to help it retain moisture.

The Har-Tru brand is currently owned by Lee Tennis of Charlottesville VA, who have good on-line support.

Har-Tru requires maintenance -- daily water to keep the surface compact, plus annual resurfacing to replace the dust that erodes away in the wind and rain.

The courts are kept level by having the Club players hand-drag the courts every match. The surface is compacted using the electric cart to roll and drag them at least one per week during the playing season.

The court surface is kept damp by programming an automatic sprinkler system to wet them to the point of puddles every day.

In the case of the GTC courts, which are fairly well sheltered from wind, the application of 20 to 25 50-pound bags (a half-ton+) of fresh Har-Tru every spring has kept the courts functioning.

To completely maintain eroding Har-Tru, especially after removing the sandy surface, our courts need at least one ton-per-year (40 bags) of new Har-Tru.

By mid-season, it helps to dump and spread 3 to 5 more 50-pound bags into the "bird bath" depressions behind the center baselines, where players kick the clay away.

After resurfacing or filling bird-bath depressions, buried lines can be raised again to court level. This is done by prying the line up a little with a claw hammer, scraping Har-Tru to the raised line with a square-nosed shovel, pushing the clay under the line with fingers, and walking or rolling the line flat to the court surface.

Salt (magnesium chloride) can be added to the courts to improve dusty conditions, typically in the high-traffic area just behind the baseline. One 50-pound bag per year is recommended.

drop spreader
A cagelike bracket is used to attach a drop-spreader to the cart, in order to resurface the Har-Tru courts each spring.

smoothing fresh clay
After dribbling the fresh Har-Tru onto the courts, it must be smoothed before the first watering, or there will be ridged and/or lumpy areas.

The GTC purchases its Har-Tru from HT Tennis in Hagerstown MD, who delivers directly to courtside. The Club usually buys 8 tons of Har-Tru in the spring, applies 4 tons to 8 courts, and stores the remaining 4 tons in the blockhouse for next year's application. In 2016, HT Tennis sold out to American Tennis Courts in Baltimore MD, which rehabbed all 8 Har-Tru courts (2 tons per court, plus new lines for $12k).

It takes 2 men 2 days to resurface GTC's 8 clay courts, using the cart and drop-spreader. The application is bone-dry dust, which must be promptly watered or rained on, to avoid having it blow away.

Since dust blows away more easily than sand, the courts gradually become sandier over the years. Every few years, the sand should be scraped off the surface, when dunes start to appear, creating soft spots.

It takes 4 man-hours to de-sand one court. The job goes quickly with 4 men simultaneously scraping, shoveling, and dumping.

Sand-removal from the courts is best done using the smooth backside of a "scarifier", a broad metal plate on the end of a pole.
scarifier sawtooth
A "scarifier" is used for breaking the Har-Tru surface or removing loose sand.

It is a long rod with a "push-broom" metal plate that has a smooth straight-edge and a coarse saw-tooth edge. The Club owns two scarifiers. The one with with the wider, heavier plate is the most effective.

scraping old clay
Larger areas that don't require close grooming (i.e. outside the lines) can be cleared using a drag-brush that has a lip or "lute" on it.

As the clay courts age, they become more level, and puddles stand at the low (north) end, making algae ponds in the rainy season. When the surface finally dries, the algae form a slippery, broken crust that must be scraped off and dumped.

The south path along the courts is a good dumping ground for sand and algae crust.

In 2013, each clay court had a volunteer caretaker:

Denizens of Har-Tru

snake trail on court
The after-effects of "Slytherin" are sometimes seen on the Har-Tru surface.

fungus ball
Some fungi like the damp subsurface conditions in well-watered Har-Tru. One fruits as a mushroom that is a tennis ball-sized, brown spotted sphere.

orange peel fungus
Persistent dampness along the shady north fence of court 1 can result in a bloom of "orange peel fungus"

Mystery Tracks on the Har-Tru

In June 2015, the morning after the courts had been completely flooded by very heavy rain, three sets of mystery tracks appeared in the still-soft clay. All gates to the courts were closed, adding the mystery of how the animals got on/off the courts. You can click on each of the three small images below to get full-sized views.
  1. hartru track
    This small cluster of isolated tracks are thin parallel grooves. There are no other indentations within 10 yards of these, so something landed and took off.

  2. hartru track
    This trail of small hoof marks meanders around in closely spaced steps. Sand appears to have filled in the hoof prints.

  3. hartru track
    This set of paw prints suggests a 4-legged animal jumping from place-to-place.
    hartru track
    A closer look suggests a five- or six-toed creature.


    Mosquitoes abound, thanks to the surrounding swampy clay. Your best defense is DEET.

    Yellowjackets like to nest in the horizontal pipes of the fences. We kill them with bug spray.


Damp Har-Tru is an attractive seed-bed for weeds and algae. Tall weeds growing near the fences are killed using herbicide (RoundUp) and/or a hoe.

Monsanto's patent on glyphosate (brand name Roundup) expired in 2000. Highly concentrated solutions of glyphosate can be ordered on-line at a small fraction of the price of the diluted solution sold under the brand name. For effective weed treatment, mix glyphosate concentrate with water from the drinking fountains and add a little dish soap detergent as a wetting agent.

We have 8 clay courts of 120'x60'=7200 sq ft each, for a total of 57,600 sq ft, or 1.3 acres. So, we can only afford spot-treatments of herbicide, not total coverage.

powered pump
The Club has a Chapin-brand 15-gallon battery-powered pump used to apply herbicide.

This pump is easy to use when driven around on the electric cart, so the courts can all be sprayed in an hour or two at 1 to 2 gallons per minute. Maintenance of the Chapin pump consists of flushing with water after use, and running antifreeze through it for winter storage.

The Club has a 1.5-gallon pressurized pump used to manually apply herbicide.

All pumps have sprayers with adjustable tips that need to be occasionally unscrewed and cleaned of small debris using a toothpick or pipe cleaner.

Tiny "carpet-weeds" and grass on the courts are more difficult to kill, requiring large amounts of herbicide and/or manual surface scraping.

scarifier on weeds
The smooth edge of a "scarifier" is used for pulling up the small carpet-weeds. Scrape back and forth a few times to get the roots of the carpet-weeds out of a dry Har-Tru surface. Then, smooth the surface and leave the weeds to desiccate.

Grass is deep-rooted, and best killed with herbicide before removal. A garden hoe is also effective.

Attempts to control weeds with chlorine bleach or magnesium chloride salt have not been effective.

Algae can be killed with a strong mixture of chlorine bleach. The surface will remain crusty, and it can either be just broken up with the scarifier, or be scraped up into piles and shoveled away using the wheelbarrow.


The Har-Tru courts are kept damp and firm by daily application of water from the Club's sprinkler system.

fire hydrant
Water is supplied from the base of the fire hydrant at the turn-off into the Club parking lots.

The water is piped up the wooded hill to the back (north) side of the Har-Tru fencing, behind court 2.

There, water passes through a booster pump to provide sufficient pressure to cover the courts.

The pump is normally sheltered by a simple "doghouse", currently a flipped-over plastic tub.
plumbing schematic
The pressurized water moves through a backbone plastic pipe buried outside the north fence. This backbone pipe is tapped by 5 pipes leading to each of 5 zones inside the court fence. Each zone has 4 to 6 small perimeter sprinklers and a large central sprinkler.

The last two zones are single courts because the water pressure is not high enough to reach that far and do a good job on two courts at once.

Normally, all zones are blocked from being watered by spring-loaded valves buried in plastic boxes behind the north fence, at the point where the zone taps into the backbone pipe.

zone 4 and 5 valves
The plastic boxes for zone 4 (closed green rectangle, under tools) and zone 5 (open flooded cylinder), housing sprinkler valves behind court 8.

sprinkler box
The pump and zone-valves are controlled electrically by a box mounted on the north wall of the GTC blockhouse.

sprinkler control
The box contains a small programmable computer that turns on the booster pump and opens the zone-valves, one-at-a-time.

The box is a typical controller for an automatic lawn sprinkler system, "EZ Pro Jr., Model 8300". The description and programming of the complicated device is in the manufacturer's documentation.

During the playing season, the controller is programmed to water the courts for 5 to 15 minutes each, with the longer times in the heat of the summer.

To shut down the system for the winter, the central rotating switch in the controller is set to OFF, and an electrical relay-block is pulled from a box mounted on the fence by the pump, and the pipes are blown out.

relay_ shunt
Relay-block box on the fence behind court 2.

The automated controller has an internal clock that is maintained by a AA battery that should be replaced each year.

The white plastic pipes are the usual glue-together commonly found in sprinkler systems. Unfortunately, there are breaks in the system every year, often under ground.

The small sprinklers beside the fences are cheap screw-in units, although a few expensive brass units still survive.

In 2016, the underground wire from the controller to the solenoid/valve for zone #3 (courts 5-6) stopped conducting. It was temporarily replaced with an above-ground wire running along the bottom of the fences.


The pipes to the sprinklers and drinking fountains must be cleared of water between the first and last freezes each winter, early-October to late-April, depending on the chances you are willing to take in the Beltsville area. The buried shutoff valves to these two systems are closed and opened by the GSFC Facility Operators. The best way to get their attention is to make a request at the FMD Trouble Desk (301-286-5555), since this creates a ticket that must be acted upon.

Once shut off, the pipes are blown out using an air compressor stored in the blockhouse.
air compressor
The model is a Kohler K181 gas-powered engine with an oil sump.
Manuals can be found at the Kohler web site.

The engine is hard-to-start, so either dip the spark plug in gasoline or spray starter fluid into the carburator while playing with the choke with the air filter off.

air hose
Attach the air hose to the pump and then to the drinking fountains or sprinklers with appropriate screw-on flanges.
The 25 small sprinkler heads by the fences are easily clogged by debris in the line. They can usually be cleaned out using a pipe cleaner and thin screwdriver. If that doesn't work, they are replaced. The pulse-and-swivel heads are easily replaced using a crescent wrench.


Surrounded by trees, the clay courts are inundated with leaves every autumn. Leaf blowers are ineffective, and harmful to the dusty surface. One approach is to hand-rake the leaves to the fence, pile them onto large plastic sheets ("tarps"), and drag the sheets out the fence doors into the woods.

leaves and trash barrel
Another approach is to use a 96-gallon trash barrel on wheels, which is a useful alternative to plastic tarps, particularly when the wind is blowing. It takes over 50 barrels-full to empty the courts. It is efficient to first scrape leaves into the tipped-over barrel, and then fill the barrel to the top using either two rakes or a rake and a snow-shovel as "tongs" to pick up bunches of leaves.

drag rake
The Club has 6-foot wide drag-rakes with a spiky plastic mat to quickly pull detritus to the fence.

It takes a few man-days to clear the courts in the autumn, and a few man-hours to clear the pine needles and the sticky sweet gum seed balls in the spring.

In 2014, Keiji Tasaki engineered a BARC (Bagster And Roller Cart) as a leaf transport system with a capacity of 80 cubic feet.
BARC disassembled #1 - BARC disassembled
BARC assembled #2 - BARC assembled
BARC loaded #3 - BARC loaded
BARC tie-down #4 - BARC tie-down
BARC front end #5 - BARC front end
BARC storage #6 - BARC storage

Bagster And Roller Cart (BARC) operating instructions:

  1. Place the Bagster (which is stored in the block house) onto the cart, and drape the two ends over the 2 X 4 foot vertical panels to provide sufficient rigidity. (Photo #2)
  2. Use the two handles to move the cart to a desired location, and fill the Bagster using a snow shovel. (Photo #3)
  3. Undrape the two ends of the Bagster from the two end panels.
  4. Use two white pipes on the short yellow straps to secure the closure of the Bagster after filling. (Photo #4)
  5. Move the cart to a desired location for dumping, remove the pipes, and dump the leaves by pulling the long yellow strap on either side of the cart. (Note: To reduce the weight of the cart, the front vertical panel next to the two handles can be removed by sliding it off from the slot prior to rolling the cart to the dump site.)
  6. After the addition of swiveling front wheels, the cart can be dragged by a rope threaded through the handles, and the bag corners can be lifted using bungee cords. (Photo #5)
  7. Most of the year, the cart is partly disassembled and hung on the wall of the plywood shed. (Photo #6)


During the growing season, the "grass" needs mowing around the GTC every 2 to 4 weeks. A lawn mower is kept in the blockhouse for this purpose.

It is used to clear the areas outside the east and south sides of the clay courts, and the east and north sides of the hard courts.


The boundaries of clay courts are marked by strips of plastic fastened to the ground using galvanized or aluminum nails. The layout of a fresh set of lines is described elsewhere.

line pegs
The line corners on the GTC clay courts are kept in place by Bob Davis' line pegs.

Total line-length on one clay tennis court is 481 feet, which requires 1924 nails at 3-inch spacing. It is easier to remember a rule-of-thumb: 500 feet of line and 2000 nails per court. It takes about one man-day to lay lines on one clay court, or just one hour for 8 men working simultaneously.

At GTC, the plastic lines last for years, even at the baselines.

Many nails, however, become loose in the ground every year, and must be either supplemented with additional nails, or pulled out one-by-one, and re-nailed nearby -- all without removing the original plastic line.

Lines that have become significantly higher or lower than the surrounding clay can be simply pried up a bit, have the dirt underneath leveled with a putty knife, and pressed back down.

tape tools
Spools of new tape and buckets of nails are kept in the Club blockhouse.

A new tape is installed by nailing one end into the ground beyond one end-point, and then stretching the tape over the other end-point, again nailing it into the ground beyond the second endpoint. The tension can be provided by one person sitting on the ground, pulling the tape with pliers. The taut tape in between is then nailed by dividing the length in half, over-and-over, to keep the total line straight. (Nailing from one end to the other typically creates puckers and meanders along the length.) The strips beyond the endpoints are then pried up and cut off.

line puller
To help one man to grab, stretch, and nail a new line in place, the Club has a simple home-made hinged device that is kept in the rafters of the blockhouse.


In the winter, the daily freeze-melt cycle causes the nails that hold the plastic lines down on a clay court to work up out of the ground.

lines up
By the end of winter, the nails would be completely out of the ground, and the lines flopped over, useless.

To deal with this, the lines must be walked down every few months, especially in late December and late February.

In mid-winter, the lines reflect sunlight and maintain a "rail" of ice under the line. Meanwhile, the surrounding dark clay surface-melts, making a soup of mud on top of a hidden layer of ice. Walking on clay courts in this condition is a disaster for the pedestrian and the courts.

Heel-to-toe walking on the lines is slow and tiresome. The job is easier by laying a board over the line and walking on that. An 8-foot long 1"x8" plank is used to flatten the line to the ground, and push the nail heads level.
tennisline walkboard <===> tennisline walkboard hinge
To move the board without bending over, attach an 8-foot rod (1"x1" square channel, normally used for electrical wiring) with an S-hook and eyelets.

Walk the board, step off, push the board forward 8 feet with the rod, and walk it again. That is about 4 times faster and a lot neater than heel-to-toe walking. The lines on 8 clay courts can be walked down in about 2 hours, using the board.


The nets themselves are simply replaced every 4 to 7 years, including the net cord. Spare nets are stored in the Club's blockhouse.
net post net post
The net posts on the Har-Tru courts need replacement every 20 to 30 years, as the salt in the Har-Tru corrodes away the base of the post, and the post snaps off. Rather than dig up the massive post foundation, a narrower diameter pipe can be slipped inside the original post's upper and lower sections.


The Tennis Tutor ProLite Plus AC ball machine purchased in 2014 needs little maintenance, other than cleaning the ball-throwing wheels. The owner's manual recommends firmly rubbing coarse-grit (40 to 60 grade) sandpaper across the throwing wheels through the ball ejection opening to remove the dirt and ink build-up. Sand the entire circumference of each wheel. The wheels should feel rough after being properly sanded.


line brush
A line brush is a low-maintenance mechanism. It consists of two wheels on an a fixed axel, separated by a line-width spacer tube. The ground-contact wheels counter-rotate a line-width brush on a spring-loaded spindle.
line brush
line brush
After years of outdoor use, the journal bearings in the wheels will rust and lock onto the axel. To fix it, disassemble the mechanism, clean off the the rust, apply WD-40, and reassemble the mechanism, which is held together with 3 cotter pins.


In August 2006, the GTC hard courts were resurfaced by All Pro Courts Inc. for $7000. Nonetheless, the ground beneath the hard courts continues to shift, opening cracks in the surface.
court cracks
Fortunately, they have not yet seriously affected play or safety.

In spring 2014, professional estimates to patch the hard court cracks and resurface them were $12,000 to $15,000, far more than the Club's treasury contained.

In autumn 2014, Dan Mandl and Mike Flick plan to clean, fill and patch the hard court cracks using Tennis Universal's products. For those cracks that are structural, we have to clean the cracks, put sand up to the bottom of the asphalt, then a layer of quickrete to 1/2" below top surface and then their fortified elastic crack filler. Long term, we will be able to then use Tennis Universal's other products which include base coat levelers, polymer court levelers and their court paint (including line paints) to recondition the court over the repaired cracks and thus make the court playable and look pretty good.


lights overhead
The lights over the hard courts are low-hanging fluorescent fixtures strung on steel cables over the doubles alleys.

The long tubes and ballasts require replacements every few years. The replacements are done by GTC volunteers who play after dark in the spring and fall.

Spare bulbs and ballasts are kept in the Club blockhouse. Scaffolding is kept in the Club's plywood shed.


Some court maintenance products are "hazardous materials", such as fluorescent light bulbs. They must be disposed of by filling out a form.

Important Safety Information


fence paint
In 2009, the fencing around the Har-Tru courts was repainted, a job costing several thousand dollars and taking a work-week for a crew of 3. The fence around the clay courts needs painting every 15 to 20 years.


damaged tennis court Click here for the complete set of disaster pictures.

The GTC Har-Tru courts were badly trenched by the sprinklers over the weekend of August 3-4, 2002. Saturday's afternoon thunderstorm apparently turned them on, since the valves are electrically operated by a small computer. The sprinklers ran all night, cutting deep into the already rain-soaked courts.

Thanks to hard work by our grounds keeper, Larry Waters (plus his son-in-law and grandson), all the clay courts were open by August 8. Courts 1-5 were resurfaced. Soaking rains at the end of August converted the dust into clay, but the drought of 2002 continued, leaving them soft and lumpy.

This same problem had happened to court #1 in the late 1990's, when a thunderstorm turned on those sprinklers. It took several months and lots of hand-leveling before the bad spots went away.

After the winter of 2002-2003, many of the sprinkler-dug tenches remained soft. In the spring of 2003, they were dug up and replaced with fresh Har-Tru.

Finally, in 2004, the Har-Tru courts returned to normal, aided by a rainy year beginning in late summer 2003.

Click here for a map of the soft spots.


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